What makes authentic ramen?
Japan has dozens of regional ramen styles, from miso ramen in Sapporo to tonkotsu in Fukuoka. Almost all of them build on the same parts: broth, tare, fat, noodles and toppings. Tare is a seasoning concentrate that goes into the bowl before the broth. It sets the direction: shoyu with soy sauce, shio with salt, miso with miso paste. You will find recipes and amounts for all three under ramen tare.
This recipe seasons the broth right in the pot with soy sauce and mirin, in the shoyu style. The broth stays clear and light brown. Tonkotsu, by contrast, is a pork bone broth that you boil hard for hours until fat and collagen turn it milky and cloudy.
The right ingredients
- Bones: Ask your butcher for pork back or neck bones. One or two trotters add gelatin and give the broth more body.
- Meat: You braise the belly as chashu. The pork neck flavors the broth, and after cooking you slice it as a second meat topping.
- Shiitake: Dried mushrooms give the broth umami. Rinse them briefly first, and read more under preparing shiitake.
- Noodles: Fresh ramen noodles from the refrigerated section of an Asian grocery store have the best bite. Dried ramen noodles work too. Plan on 100 g per person.
- Toppings: You can buy bamboo shoots pickled, or make menma yourself.
How to get the broth right
Keep the broth just below a simmer, with only single bubbles rising to the surface. Boiling hard blends fat and broth into a cloudy emulsion. In the first hour, skim off the gray foam and top up evaporated water so the bones stay covered. For four bowls you need about 1.6 liters of finished broth, or 400 ml per person. Salt it only at the end, after the soy sauce and mirin are in. Ramen broth should taste stronger than a soup, because the noodles absorb salt.
Preparing the chashu and eggs
Slice the chashu cold, because warm it falls apart. Braise it the day before and leave it overnight in its braising liquid in the refrigerator. For soft eggs with a runny yolk, cook eggs straight from the refrigerator for 6 to 7 minutes in boiling water and shock them in ice water. If you put them peeled into some of the chashu braising liquid overnight, you get ajitsuke tamago with a brown edge and a savory yolk.
Common mistakes
- Noodles overcooked: They keep cooking in the hot broth. Take them out 30 seconds before the end of the package time.
- Noodles rinsed cold: The soup cools down at once. Just let the noodles drain and put them straight into the bowl.
- Cold bowls: Fill the bowls with hot water beforehand and pour it out shortly before assembling.
- Toppings straight from the refrigerator: Cold chashu and cold eggs lower the temperature. Lay both briefly in hot broth first.
Variations
For a creamy, cloudy broth, boil the bones hard and for longer, as in the tonkotsu ramen. With chicken instead of pork, you can make shoyu ramen with chicken chashu. For more heat, add a spoonful of chili oil or a pinch of shichimi togarashi over the finished bowl.
